Bali is known for its stunning beaches and vibrant nightlife, but beyond the typical tourist spots lies a different world: the ancient Bali Aga villages, where time seems to stand still. These traditional villages, like Tenganan and Trunyan, offer a glimpse into the island’s oldest customs, crafts, and spiritual practices, preserved over centuries. Visiting these villages provides a rare cultural experience, giving insight into Bali’s history, art, and beliefs far removed from modernity.
Tenganan: The Home of Bali’s Sacred Weaving
Located in eastern Bali, Tenganan is one of the island’s best-preserved Bali Aga villages. The Bali Aga, or “original Balinese,” are thought to be the descendants of Bali’s first inhabitants, and their village remains true to its ancient roots, free from many outside influences. Tenganan is known for its unique cultural heritage, especially the sacred art of double ikat weaving, known as geringsing, which is found nowhere else in Indonesia. This rare, intricate weaving technique involves dying and weaving both the warp and weft threads before weaving them together, creating patterns with deep spiritual meaning. Geringsing cloth is believed to have protective, magical properties and is used in important rituals and ceremonies.
Visitors to Tenganan can watch local artisans practice this meticulous weaving process and purchase handmade textiles as souvenirs. The village is also famous for its mekare-kare ritual, a dramatic mock battle with thorny pandan leaves held in honor of the god of war, Indra. This ritual, part of the annual Usaba Sambah festival, reflects the villagers’ commitment to ancient traditions and is a powerful display of Bali Aga culture.
Trunyan: The Village of the Dead
Further north, Trunyan is a village like no other. Known for its unconventional burial customs, Trunyan is located on the eastern shores of Lake Batur and is only accessible by boat. In Trunyan, the Bali Aga practice a unique form of funerary tradition: placing deceased villagers beneath a sacred banyan tree rather than burying or cremating them. Unlike other Balinese, who perform elaborate cremation ceremonies to guide souls to the afterlife, the people of Trunyan leave bodies in bamboo cages under the banyan tree. Remarkably, the bodies do not produce an odor, thanks to the tree’s natural properties, which are believed to absorb the scent of decay.
Visitors to Trunyan can witness the mysterious burial grounds (with respect, as the site is sacred to locals), marked by skulls and bones arranged on platforms around the banyan tree. While Trunyan’s customs may seem unusual, they reflect the village’s unique spiritual connection to nature and the belief that the sacred tree holds powerful purifying energies.
Preserving Bali Aga Traditions
Both Tenganan and Trunyan serve as cultural time capsules, safeguarding Bali’s ancient practices and beliefs. In these villages, daily life follows strict customs and rituals that are often tied to their distinct religious beliefs and unique dialects. By maintaining their traditions, the Bali Aga villages give a rare and authentic look at Bali’s past, providing a strong contrast to the rapid changes seen in other parts of the island.
The Bali Aga way of life reflects a deep respect for nature, ancestral spirits, and cultural heritage. Visitors to these villages are encouraged to approach with sensitivity, observing and learning rather than intruding. Guides from surrounding areas often accompany visitors, explaining the cultural significance of different rituals and customs, allowing tourists to experience the villages respectfully.
A Cultural Journey Back in Time
Exploring Tenganan and Trunyan isn’t just a visit; it’s a journey into Bali’s ancient world, where centuries-old customs continue to shape daily life. While Tenganan captivates with its sacred weaving and dynamic rituals, Trunyan offers a glimpse into unique spiritual beliefs and burial traditions that are rare and intriguing. Both villages stand as reminders of Bali’s diverse cultural heritage, where the Bali Aga community lives as they have for centuries, preserving their sacred arts, rituals, and way of life.
For travelers seeking to go beyond Bali’s beaches and uncover the island’s most authentic traditions, Tenganan and Trunyan provide an unforgettable cultural experience, connecting the past with the present in a way that few places can.